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Howard Inough
Howard Inough
Kensington, New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 451
Joined: May 2009
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The triple forum Jump to new posts
Re: Oil feed line question Peter R 53 seconds ago
I have no intention to rev the sh*t out of my bike on a cold winter morning, I actually never use the full potential of my triple.
This is because the older I get, the faster a rider I used to be. (lol)
So I decided not to bother with the oil supply line modification.
Thanks all for your input.
4 73 Read More
Bsa bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: Mixing years/models BSA forks HELP! VicCyclone 14 minutes ago
Reply in other thread
2 64 Read More
British modified/specials Jump to new posts
Re: 65 BSA - Desert SLED (lots of questions) VicCyclone 15 minutes ago
The damper rod Allen screws are 5/16 cycle. I always coat the threads in Wellseal and fit the aluminium washer (on the outside, I have seen them fitted on the inside under the damper tube). Make sure you are using the correct drain screws with the extended portion past the thread to engage in the slot in the damper tube. Are you using the correct steering anchor plate,? There are two. The first is 42-5014 which was used on the A10 and early A65 frames up to and including 1967. From 68 on, this changes to 68-6185 which has an upturned end and a bolt brazed on. The two are not interchangeable.
5 82 Read More
Bsa bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: Has anyone fitted a 42T sprocket/brake drum to A65 VicCyclone 35 minutes ago
The 1964/65 Lightning was fitted with a 42T sprocket as standard, the part number is 67-6149. Burton Bike Bits normally have them in stock. Their version is finned but the original was not.. If you want to use the big bearing you will need to machine the housing. If you use this drum, you will need to use the steel brake plate 42-6030 as used on Gold Stars.
1 25 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: Latest Project advice TinkererToo 1 hour ago
I hadn't noticed this thread, are you using the later 60-7362 3 piece bearing? It is much superior to the original 60-4167. The dimensions are the same, so ditto the spacer.
5 535 Read More
Norton bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: 1930 Big 4 - Air Lever Burga007 2 hours ago
Thanks as ever Rohan!
17 150 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: Tiger Cub Crankshaft Oilway Plug Query tiger_cub 2 hours ago
I doubt a plain big end will overcome the oil pump, even the slider block one.
8 224 Read More
Royal enfield forum Jump to new posts
1960 Constellation restauration vintagebike 2 hours ago
Last fall i bought a 1960 Constellation in the UK.

[Linked Image from]

[Linked Image from]

I guess it was delivered as a sidecar machine, because of the forks, single carb and signs of use in the frame lugs.

My first plan was to get it running with some cosmetic work. But the condition of the paintwork was that bad, that i decided for a complete strip down and new paint job with some optical/ technical changes.

She has now some Interceptor parts, exhausts and top yoke, twin carbs and a new seat in my favour.

[Linked Image from]

[Linked Image from]

I used the old seat base, made i narrower in the front and made a new seat foam.

The toolbox ( i know it´s the wrong one, but i´m ok with it) was remodeld for the twin carbs, and the lids get the "ears".

[Linked Image from]

Made some adapters for taper roller bearings for the yokes.

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[Linked Image from]

Then i dismanteled the bike and started painting.

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I still have to paint the toolbox, than i can start the reassembly.

I took of the heads and barrel for inspection, the heads need new valves, guides and seats, the piston/ barrels are ok, crank fine.

The clutch was the scissor type, which i don´t like, so i bought the belt drive / clutch kit from hitchcocks, changed the mainshaft in the gearbox with new bearings and seals.

[Linked Image from]

The magneto was in need of a complete overhaul, so i send it out to a company for this job.

I hope the old lady will run in this summer, lots of work to do but i´m optimistic..

0 5 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: Unbalanced down pipes Morrisey 3 hours ago
Dave Lid at 7:27
Stainless steel has a significantly worse thermal conductivity than steel so the gases would stay hotter. As gases cool, their specific volume drops, so stainless exhaust pipes would have a higher velocity at their end than the equivalent steel ones would. That means a tuned exhaust for stainless would have to be different dimensions to a steel one, but the difference probably isn't that significant up the top end.
24 643 Read More
Norton bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: 7 Inch yoke stem dimensions. sammysnail 3 hours ago
Bearings that suffer vibration or shocks when not rotating are susceptible to the localised wear known as "Brinelling", named after the metallurgist Johan Brinell... I found this in the taper roller steering head bearings in my R75 BMW, The symptom was a high speed weave, and bearing replacement cured it. Maybe caused by too many wheelies.

I guess that the only way to avoid this wear is to convert to plain bearings. Maybe sealed with a pressurised oil supply. Sometimes the best engineering solution is not the best practical one.

By the way, the Manx steering head tube on the frame was 52mm i.d. tubing with rings sweated into it to locate the bearings. My Dominator tube is somewhat thicker in the wall. I still have a handful of Manx engine and gearbox mount bolts, and they are centre-drilled for almost the unthreaded length of the bolt. Presumably all in the pursuit of weight reduction.

The height of both my new and old bearings is 15mm overall.
18 609 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: TR6 seat trim BigBars 4 hours ago
It's really not so hard, all explained here. A new seat covering is about 50 bucks.
8 157 Read More
Bsa bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: A65 Crank case breather vent location ? DavidP 4 hours ago
Originally Posted by Mark Z
The only time I've had oil come out the timed breather on either of my A65s was when they were wet-sumped.
So, once a week then? laughing
17 619 Read More
Ajs & Matchless forum Jump to new posts
Re: AJS / Matchy engine mounting plates. Rohan 4 hours ago
My bike is a 49, so I'm not familiar enough with the earlier bikes, which were different in many details.
But the parts books list the 46 part numbers as a left plate and a right plate, for each of the 350 and 500 models.
I have seen a set of 48 plates (have a pic, somewhere) and don't recall any rib.

Will it prevent you assembling it all ?

P.S. Its not unknown for previous owners to incorporate 'improvements' into parts,
sometimes as genuine improvements and sometimes questionable.
Its up to future owners to decide what is kept and what is discarded ?
1 24 Read More
The Rod and Tappet Jump to new posts
Re: Beno & Al Rodi's Stash DavidP 4 hours ago
My favorite quote from Beno: I asked him one time at a Norton club meeting if it was difficult to get air on the old dirt bikes. He said that, "It's easy to jump those bikes, it's landing that hurts."
16 651 Read More
The Rod and Tappet Jump to new posts
Re: The end of a good photo host site DavidP 5 hours ago
I suppose I could use iCloud, but the permanent solution would be to fire up my old SCSI drive tower and configure it with a permanent IP address.
15 461 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: Pre Unit pictures jjdavidson 5 hours ago
it's a shame, shut down i think. you have great documentation there!
1 86 Read More
British motorcycles in general Jump to new posts
Re: Barn find '72 TR6RV BAinLA 7 hours ago
Ordered the seat cover today ($59). unfortunately it will have a giant "Triumph" advertisement on the back which I will have to deal with somehow.

Changed the oil today after a nice brisk 15 mile ride even though it's only been ~300 miles since the first change (at 50 miles). Looks fine, no particles and nothing on the magnets that I put up in the reservoir.

Sparking ignition points means bad condenser right? or corroded connections. Too high voltage? Probably could use new condenser anyway I guess if it has one. -Brian

Oh, Cyborg; Going to leave the mufflers as is for now. Maybe down the line I'll change those out but money is a little tight on this project.
143 11,294 Read More
Bsa bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: 1967/68 A65 BSA Oil Line Routing Pictures Needed Mark Z 8 hours ago
"Reducer" fittings, if you still need 'em:
8 186 Read More
Ariel forum Jump to new posts
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C Stuart Kirk 8 hours ago
Originally Posted by Magnetoman
Originally Posted by Tridentman
I have learnt to plow my own furrow.
Moi aussi.
But we don't want you to dig your own hole and then fall down in it.....

I think we all agree the aluminum suffered the most and it needs the most help..

The following points seek to help out the ally case.

Originally Posted by Magnetoman
The cavity for the bearing is ~0.68" deep and the original Imperial bearing 0.750" thick, so it stuck out of the case by ~0.07"

[Linked Image]
Yes it did but that red herring doesn't matter much because of the edge radius on the original bearing. It's at least .070" by my "ruler up against the computer screen" measurements, so the cylindrical (load carrying) OD was fully supported. Val Page is innocent on that charge of "bad engineering".

Originally Posted by Magnetoman
However, the metric bearing is 0.668" so it will be slightly inside the cavity once installed,
Also true but not that important regarding bearing support. BUT, the cylindrical OD (load carrying surface) appears less wide than on the inch bearing. (MM, you could confirm those details.) This will load the al more heavily than before....Looks like a step backward.

Originally Posted by Magnetoman
That's all I have to offer on the topic at the moment because I'm still mulling over possibilities.
By utilizing surface area currently unused because of radii (the bearing) and chamfers (the crankcase), you could increase the effective surface area of your bearing housing by 15 to 20%, maybe more. A stiffer steel sleeve would distribute the loads more effectively than aluminum for a given thickness. Boring the case will cut away some of the chamfer also increasing housing surface area.

I vote for a steel sleeve and boring the case oversize to true it up. A honed or lapped surface finish wouldn't hurt either.

But it's your decision...
2,409 976,917 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: TR6 brake light switch desco 9 hours ago
This a very simple adjustment that is shown in the shop manual. You can give that switch a hair trigger.
2 54 Read More
The triple forum Jump to new posts
Re: Waste of time and money DavidP 9 hours ago
I emailed the club registrar. Graham apologized for the error, something about his printer acting up that day. He will re-investigate as time allows.
For now I guess I'll just assume that mine came down the line in September of '72.
10 263 Read More
Hot links forum Jump to new posts
SS80 in Calif. Rohan 9 hours ago
0 19 Read More
Members bike projects Jump to new posts
Re: Off with the Pixies? Lannis 9 hours ago
Originally Posted by Shane in Oz
Now it just needs two hours a day and they'l be running in no time.

You meant to tickle up my guilty conscience and make it gnaw at me, I know you did ....

6 106 Read More
The competition forum Jump to new posts
Re: Forged pistons linker48x 9 hours ago
Markster, I think you will find that the MAP 4032 alloy pistons are actually CNC machined from billet, and not forged. Marino told me this, and they are in a section of the MAP catalog headed "M.A.P. CYCLE BILLET PISTON KITS," too, and the word "forged" does not appear anywhere in the description. I have a set in my street T140 and they conform very closely to the head profile, with obvious squish benefits, and they perform great on the street. (They are nominally 9.5 c.r., but whatever c.r. they are, our local 90 octane gas is not quite enough, so I mix that with 100LL.) They fit closely enough you will want to put them together with the same care to clearances on skirts and domes and squish that you would use on a race engine, and not simply install them--the instructions that accompany them make this very clear, too. They definitely are CNC machined on the underside of the crown and the insides of the skirt for lightness, and seem fairly thin in section--comparable to the Wiseco Pro-Lite two stroke piston skirts. I was told by someone else that they do not retain their shape well in a race setting, with the skirts decreasing in diameter from hi rpm pounding, increasing their clearance, but I cannot verify that, since I only used heavier forged pistons in my road and dirt track race engines and I only use my MAP these pistons on the street, where revs and loads are much lower, and I have seen no skirt collapse in the 1500 miles or so I have used them. I am really pleased with them and they perform great.

Forged pistons are certainly heavier, unless you can find someone who has machined them heavily to lighten them. And since forged pistons expand at a rate far greater than modern cast pistons, you have to give them a lot of clearance especially for race applications--my race engine got .0055 clearance on Arias forged pistons, and with the .003 taper it ended up .0085 at the top, just under the ring, where it would otherwise stick. They worked perfectly and fit perfectly, once the engine was warm. But I think I agree with Reverb here--Best to stay with street cast pistons, which are lighter, and have closer cold fitting clearances, for street applications where the revs aren't to 7000 every shift, every few seconds, for the life of the engine.

By the way, on the subject of engine coatings, I never used them in my Triumph race engines, but on my aircooled Yamaha Formula 500 engine, where performance was heavily impacted by heat, I did have H.M. Elliott Co nearby Charlotte NC coat the crowns of the pistons, with their proprietary ceramic, and the skirts of the piston with their hard surfaced antiwear coating. These guys are on the current cutting edge and do work for the big NASCAR engine builders, the winning Ford GT at Lemans, etc. etc. There are of course others in the coating business too that do good work, but these folks were recommended to me and I used them consistently and can vouch for them.
15 386 Read More
The Rod and Tappet Jump to new posts
Re: Vintage trophy girls BSA_WM20 10 hours ago
The photographersI worked with used to spray stuff they did not want to reflect with WD 40 then dust with baby powder .
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